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Orcadian rhythms: the UK capital that adds 50% to its population in a single day and then returns to normal — over and over again

25 July 2017

If you’re asked to think of a busy town, chances are you wouldn’t pick Kirkwall, the capital of the Orkney Islands off Scotland’s north coast.

There is no way our town centre would look as good as it does if we didn’t have the cruise ships coming in.
Judith Glue, knitwear designer and shop owner

There are days, however, when the town’s population suddenly doubles in size.

Why? Because it’s the cruise ship capital of the UK and, each time a ship docks, as many as 4,000 engers at a time disembark and begin exploring the town.

While some Orcadians are delighted with the influx of visitors, others remain unconvinced.

Here are some of their stories...

Jimmy – the shuttle bus driver

Jimmy says the tourists are good for business.

“The bus company started with one bus and now we have 23.

“It's not the only thing that keeps us going in business, but it’s a huge factor in the summertime.”

Despite being a local, he’s not immune from getting stumped by questions from his engers. Not that he worries: “I’ll tell people what I know. And what I don’t know, I’ll just make up!”

Steven – jewellery maker and shop owner

Jewellery is an ideal purchase for cruise ship engers: it takes up very little space in their luggage.

But just because it’s usually small in size, that doesn’t always mean it has a small price tag.

Local jeweller Steven Cooper shared this story: “I once had a cruise ship enger who came in and bought a gold bangle for £2500 — and they were quite happy to just to do that. It's great when they do!”

Lorraine – cafe owner

“There is a win-win for some businesses but definitely not the food industry. We get people coming in, having a cup of coffee, sitting on the WiFi and staying for hours on end.

“You can't exactly ask them to move on...

“Some friends of mine used to visit quite a bit but now feel the cruise liners are spoiling Kirkwall.”

Judith – knitwear designer, shop and cafe owner

Judith owns a knitwear shop and cafe.

She’s been running her shop since she was 18 and says the cruise ship trade is essential.

“In January, Febuary and March, it’s absolutely dead; there are no tourists here. So in order to survive the winter months, we do need these cruise ships.”

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